Richard Stupart

where the road goes…

Review – Fatima’s Nest, Tofo

January 20, 2009

Fatima’s Nest is a backpackers and camping spot situated right on Tofo’s main beach, and was a hive of activity during the period that we stayed there (over new years 2009). Unlike Fatima’s in Maputo (from which there is a shuttle for 600MTN), Fatima’s in Tofo is much larger, making for far less of an intimate, relaxed atmosphere.

Accommodation is provided in (at least) dorms and camping (possibly other configurations as well), and there are hot and cold showers, a communal kitchen and shared ablution facilities. There is also a bar/restaurant with steps down to the beach, which has live bands in the evenings and makes for a great place to hang out if you can get a seat early (it was near-impossible to find room later in the nights).

I would advise, if possible, that you stay elsewhere and visit the place for purely recreational kicks in the evenings.

I would advise, if possible, that you stay elsewhere and visit the place for purely recreational kicks in the evenings.  When we were there, water restrictions were supposedly in place, reducing availability of running water (and showers) to around 6-9 in the mornings and evenings. For a campsite/backpackers with easily two or three hundred people and eight showers in total, this created considerable grumpiness. One camper who asked around was told by the other establishments that there were no water restrictions, and that it was likely a ploy to save money on the part of Fatima’s.  When he brought this up with her, he was kicked out of the facility (I had overheard the exchange and the camper in question was actually very reasonable in questioning the shortages, and never received an adequate explanation of why there was no water, in my view). Given that the rates were above-normal for the facilities, the least that Fatima’s could do was to provide them, more so given that for comparable prices, Bamboozi’s some way down the beach looked amazing (it was booked out, so we couldn’t get in).

It is understandable that Fatima’s in Tofo tries to profit from the peak demand over December, but the place started to feel like more of a poor-service moneytrap than a well-run accommodation establishment, and we were glad to leave.  A day early in fact, rather forfeiting our last day’s fees (paid in advance, non refundable) than endure another day of no water and nasty admin. Perhaps it is better in the quieter seasons, when there are less people and (I am told) all-day water, but otherwise avoid the place in high season unless you have no other choice.

Footnote

If you have been toFatima’s, I would love for you to leave your own impressions here for others. This writeup gets a lot of traffic from folk headed to Mozambique, so any information you could add would likely benefit them a great deal too. Thanks!



8 Responses to “Review – Fatima’s Nest, Tofo”

  1. Richard Stupart » Blog Archive » Some Last Thoughts on Backpacking Mozambique Says:

    [...] a personal point of view, or through talking about specific backpackers (if you don’t read the post, stay away form Fatima’s in Tofo – it is a dank hole).  It seems useful then, with the dust [...]


  2. sonia Says:

    Stop being SO BIASED and negative about my country, why don’t you FUCK OFF. You racist fool


  3. Richard Says:

    Ow? I really like your country. It is a beautiful place and I enjoyed my time there very much! I just happen to think that Fatima’s (in Tofo) was a bit exploitative. Which, during December, I believe it was.


  4. elaine Says:

    Not sure where the racism comes in. maybe sonia is biased.


  5. Katherine Says:

    I was one of the unfortunate fools who stayed in Fatima’s (in Tofo). I think Richard was too nice about the place and suspect I would have been ruder had I written a review. The words “inner most circle of hell” spring to mind.

    I liked the rest of Mozambique though and even liked the rest of Tofo. It’s just Fatima’s that made me sad.


  6. John Stupart.com » A Small Taste of Another Time Says:

    [...] were totally 100% legit Ray Bans bought in Cambodia for $2, but like a damned fool I left them at Fatima’s in Maputo, which means either the staff stole them or some greasy backpacker is using them. I can [...]


  7. Christmas Eve 2007. People’s Democratic Republic of Laos | Richard Stupart Says:

    [...] megaultrabad story here. Now. As for me, having written about terrifying bus rides of my own, and near-cholera-inducing accommodation, this new story (which actually happened shortly after the Laos bus ride of terror (see above link) [...]


  8. Ski trip For The Win: New Year’s Day » Daegu Days Says:

    [...] woke up early on 1 January 2009 because the yellow tent I was sharing with two friends at a dodgy beach resort in Tofo, Mozambique, had become unbearably hot and humid, although the day did improve dramatically [...]



Leave a Reply