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On this day, last year, we had spent a day so far in Luang Prabhang, and I was trekking through the city looking at temples and sharing the experience with close friends. This christmas eve, I am alone, but woke up in a tent somewhere west of Bazaruto Island, and watched the sun rise over the Indian Ocean. Much of the rest of the day will have me braving the dhow to some local reefs and another of the archipelago islands. It’s not, I realise, the way that christmas eve is traditionally spent, but I don’t regret it. I feel I am stronger today for feeling that growing history of travel, marked by this day.