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Not quite a backpackers, so much as two sets of four-bed dorms behind the actual Pensao Pachina hostel – seemingly run as a sideline by the barman. Nevertheless, this spot makes for an acceptable (depending on your tolerance for accommodation standards) stop for a night when waiting to go onward north or south on the EN1, as you can crash here, walk to the ferry the next morning and get across to Maxixe in time to catch a bus or chapa onwards to your next destination.

The dorm accommodation here was actually fine, compared to many of the other places we stayed at. The dorm is lockable, has a fan and mosquito nets and a spare plug point for charging all manner of electonic goodies. We made liberal use of said plug. There is no selfcatering kitchen spot, so you will need to get food from a restaurant nearby (there is one as part of the hotel, not 10m from the dorm – which makes excellent pizza). Toilet facilities are what stops me glowing about the place as a decent stop. A single, manky toilet with shower attached right next to it is used by the patrons of the bar/restaurant into the night, making it all but unusable for most of the day (we showered once, then resolved to rather stay dity as the lesser of two evils).

But for this fact, it is a decent spot. We stayed there just after new year, and on the 2nd and 3rd of January, the road right in front of the hotel was filled with cars playing wild mixes of music and hundreds of people of all ages dancing or relaxing on the side of the road. It gave the place a great energy – a sort of Mardi Gras feeling – while we were there. I doubt it is a regular weekend occurrence, but if you are there over a major holiay, I suspect that there may be a good chance of you encountering some local noise and energy – it made for a great change to actually see and participate in a properly local celebration over the South Africanised partying at the beach in Tofo, a short hop away.

It was just such a pity about those toilets…