?> Archives | Richard Stupart
Select Page

Things Remembered. Things Not.

Watching Abu Simbel shining in the night sky and surrounded with the dark desert beyond, brought in on the cold winds that cut across the deck of our ferry, I said my silent goodbyes to Sudan. In truth, I had said farewell out loud, in person, the evening before....

It’s the Night Before Christmas

Or not. There is no Christmas in Sudan – not even the bubble-wrapped version where the jolly Santa Claus puts you on his knees and hears your Christmas wishes. No sir. Tomorrow will be another day of bright sun, delicious schwarmas, clapped out yellow taxis and...

The Beginning of the End

I’ve been in Ethiopia for almost two weeks now. It’s been a delicious downtime from constant traveling up to this point – a chance to stop thinking about Cairo, about endings, about the fact that nothing lasts forever. But this morning it will be time to move on. To...

Traveling to Dangerous Places

The last week and a bit I have been in Ethiopia, drinking delicious coffee, wandering around the ruins of castles I had never known Africa capable of possessing and ruminating on the big questions of life, the universe and everything (yes, I brought a towel). On...

Lorry Nights

It’s dark. We left Marsabit an hour ago, by which time night had long fallen, but as I clamber down into the lorry’s cargo hold, the darkness becomes a dense, clinging oil. Occasionally pierced by small torches as the dozen or so others in the small space...