Richard Stupart

For the abysmal failure at a-post-a-day, I apologise. Partly finding Internet is not so easy (what was I thinking), but its also been perfectionism on my part at not being able to really tell the stories as what they mean, more than simple narrative. I realise now that the reflective stuff on what it all means is impossible to determine now. That will only come in hindsight. So, instead I present an extract from the large and growing moleskine journaliing of days’ events that I have been updating religiously. It’s the foundation story of the learning to come, but in its raw form (and it is a bit rough – big eyes), this is a partial account of arriving in Livingstone this morning.

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I had promised, both in my last post on Lesotho and to Moruti, the owner/manager/everything at Mamohase Home Stay that I would speak a bit about the place which rescued us from our own lack of planning driving into the mountains late on a Saturday afternoon. Read the rest of this entry »

Not quite a backpackers, so much as two sets of four-bed dorms behind the actual Pensao Pachina hostel – seemingly run as a sideline by the barman. Nevertheless, this spot makes for an acceptable (depending on your tolerance for accommodation standards) stop for a night when waiting to go onward north or south on the EN1, as you can crash here, walk to the ferry the next morning and get across to Maxixe in time to catch a bus or chapa onwards to your next destination. Read the rest of this entry »

Fatima’s Nest is a backpackers and camping spot situated right on Tofo’s main beach, and was a hive of activity during the period that we stayed there (over new years 2009). Unlike Fatima’s in Maputo (from which there is a shuttle for 600MTN), Fatima’s in Tofo is much larger, making for far less of an intimate, relaxed atmosphere.

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If your plans for exploring Mozambique feature thatch huts and bars made of cane and palm leaves, then Baobab is an essential stop if you will be spending time in Vilanculo. Situated in the cane town (the area of Vilanculo made of sand streets and thatch huts with no lights at night), Baobab feels protected from the legions of South Africans in 4x4s which plough up and down the main road of the town during any available holiday

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Next to Fatima’s Place, The Base is the other popular option for backpackers transiting through Maputo.  Unlike Fatima’s, The Base is located closer to the interesting part of town, making for much shorter walks to the areas with major sightseeing and cultural attractions – useful to bear in mind if you are intending to do some Maputo sightseeing during your time in the city. Read the rest of this entry »

One of the two popular backpackers in Maputo, Fatima’s appears to be something of an institution for backpackers transiting through Maputo en route to adventures elsewhere. Read the rest of this entry »

Situated on the beachfront of Vilanculo, though recessed from the main beachfront road by a long driveway, Zombie is one of the nicest backpackers in Vilanculo, with a pool, double and dorm accommodation kept neat and clean (itself a luxury in much of Mozambique). A central bar and hangout area with book exchange and interesting groups moving through the place in the day makes a rainy day more entertaining than might otherwise be the case in the wet season. Managed (for the time that I was there) by Sabrina and Denis from Odyssey dive safaris on behalf of the owners, who had been away for a few months, it is well worth considering as a well-located option when backpacking through Vilanculo. By way of introduction from Sabrina and Denis and the daytime managers Ricardo and Narcisso, I met a wealth of interesting people and thoroughly enjoyed my time spent there. I cannot recommend the place highly enough for travellers passing through or spending some time in Vilanculo.